La Chablisienne vinifies this portion of Fourchaume premier cru separately, regarding it as almost grand cru in power. It is certainly a concentrated wine, very ripe, but lined with citrus acidity, crispness and structure. At the end, though, the richness comes out.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.