The vintage in Chablis seems to bring out both richness and minerality. That's certainly the combination here. The wine is full, with green plum juice followed by yellow peaches. At the core, though, is a tense, tight streak that comes from the chalk soil of the region, giving a firm structure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.