While the wine seems at first rich, it then shows a tautly acidic character that gives a refreshing character to the roundness. That steely acidity is what defines the tight, crisp finish.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.