Still tight and closed, this has the potential to be a very fine Grand Cru. It has a tight, steely character, a texture that brings out nervy minerality and the beginnings of rich citrus and white fruits. With the light touch of wood aging, this will age well. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.