The cool Côte de Lechet, facing north, produces a classically steely Chablis. This is still young, very tight and nervy, its acidity prominent even though the texture is ripe. Aging will bring balance between the crisp character and the richer green and white fruits. Drink from 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.