La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi 1998 Colmera Sangiovese (California)

The flagship of La Famiglia, this represents a supreme effort to perfect Sangiovese in California. Dry berry fruit is wrapped in soft acids and low tannins that make for elegant drinking. It's a good wine but struggles to find complexity and nuance. Yet Colmera is a wine to watch. Contains 83% Sangiovese, with 14% Syrah and 3% Teroldego. —S.H.

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