This wine is lean, with fresh acidity and stalky, dry fruitiness. The tannins and the intense acidity suggest a wine that is not going to broaden out and will always be on the austere side. Drink from 2017. This is one of the first vintages since Labouré-Roi, which was hit by scandal in 2012, passed into new ownership.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.