Laetitia's La Colline bottling is always a big, vital wine, unusually rich for Pinot Noir but nonetheless compelling. The 2009 vintage has been kind to it, resulting in fantastically concentrated flavors of cherry pie, pomegranate, persimmon, cola and mushroom, liberally enhanced by sweet new oak. It's a potent wine, one that Pinot purists might say is too extracted. But there's no denying its delicious beauty. Drink now–2015.