You finish a bottle of Champagne, and with the last glass the wine suddenly opens out. This Grand Cru Brut is just that style of Champagne. It is closed, tight and needs time to breathe. That's partly because the yeastiness gives it a young character, but also because the steely, citrus character needs the opportunity to broaden. Then it becomes a fine wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.