The great 2002 vintage has produced some remarkable wines and this falls into that category. Still so fresh, with swathes of mineral texture and tight acidity, it is still developing. Hints of toast point to a future where the wine will be rounder and with even more complexity. For now, the crisp apple, pear and softer yellow fruits dominate. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.