Rich and silky, this wine is full of very soft, sweet fruit. It has the texture of treacle, dense but without any sense of tannins. The dusty, superripe fruit (14.5% alcohol) makes it very enticing, but the structure and the acidity seem to have disappeared. Not imported.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.