From an extreme-coastal vineyard near Cambria, this shows lots of low-alcohol, low-ripeness qualities on the nose: Kalamata olive, sautéed brown mushrooms, wet asphalt and just the slightest hint of raspberry and cranberry. There is tons of tingly acidity on the palate, along with flavors of tobacco, marjoram, dewy oregano and barely ripe cherry tomato. Drink 2020–2030.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.