Their regular brut is just a touch sweeter than average, so the ultra brut seems a bit less, well, brutish than some others. Austere, certainly, but with plenty of crisp, fresh citrus fruit and a bit of vanilla custard. Screams for raw oysters.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.