This is a really good rendition of this extra-tart, austere style of Champagne. Citrus and steel are the prime components—don't look for tropical fruits, toast or buttered nuts in this baby. This is a terroir-driven wine; it tastes like the chalk it's grown in. Can you say oysters and caviar? How about triple crème cheeses, foie gras, etc.? Made for the richest food you care to throw at it.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.