Less is more; you get the feeling the wine was made by a hands-off winemaker. It's understandable why he would want the grapes to speak for themselves. They're amazing, offering up the most generous, sappy flavors you can imagine. You wish it had more of the artist's touch, even more oaky-framing, something to organize this raw talent. But there's no doubting its pedigree—an Anderson Valley grand cru. —S.H.