Le Cadeau 2012 Rocheux Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains)

Production is down, quality, cost and finished alcohol are all up for this estate-grown designate, now labeled as a reserve. There's a sniff of leather and underripe blackberry and black cherry fruit, along with a somewhat unusual, though not unpleasant, scent of chicken boullion. The wine opens up quickly but stops just a bit short of a full-length finish. Give it extra breathing time if you plan to drink it soon. Paul Gregutt

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