Leeuwin Estate 2017 Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)

It's unsurprising, given the comparatively cool vintage and Leeuwin's location in Margaret River's chillier southern end, that there's a cool edge to this wine. The fresh currant and black-cherry fruit is etched in savory herbs, menthol, black olive and dark chocolate, with a briny, ocean-swept vibe. Tannins are fine and herb flecked. They're taut but not iron fisted, thanks to fresh acidity and ever-present fruit. It's a tad austere but still offers the drinkability that's signature to this long-standing estate. Would be a knockout with char-grilled steak. Christina Pickard