Sometimes a reserve designation on a Chardonnay simply translates to excessive use of new oak; here it brings a rich abundance of fruit, along with a density and texture rarely found in domestic Chardonnays. This is a fruit salad of a wine, to be sure, running through a farmer's market's worth of peaches, apples, pears, apricots, bananas and more. But it also brings the butter, the butterscotch and the barrel toast, layered in and wrapped around the fruits so it has the richness of a banana split, and some of the creaminess as well.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.