There is a hint of the maturity of a great botrytis wine, but it is lost in the old, toasty acidity. Three years ago, this would have been a great, but delicate wine. Imported by Martine's Wines.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.