Here again the 1998 vintage shows its forward, fat, fruity, lip-smackingly luscious qualities right out in front. This is a meaty, oaky Cab, with firm, tongue-lashing tannins, plenty of red berry/cassis fruit and a power-packed profile from top to bottom. It's delicious and strong, with coffee, bitter chocolate and licorice lining the extended finish. Ideally, you'll give it about two more years of cellar time and then go for it.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.