Soft wine, with ripe tannins, dry fruit at the end, and flavors of southern herbs and wild fruits. A rich wine, with a streak of power under the sophisticated exterior. At this stage, the southern flavors and modern sophistication clash. This could come around in 2–3 years, although it is hard to predict with confidence. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.