Yeasty, reductive funk still dominates the nose and lets none of the fruit shine through—but is nonetheless promising. The mellow palate also showcases yeasty notes, but here they are salty and textural, mixed in with an apple and lemon freshness that draws attention to the concentration on the creamy, textured palate. This is a wine that still needs to come out of its shell, but what lies in wait is racy, zesty and interesting. Drink 2025–2040. Anne Krebiehl MW
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