Longoria 2000 Clos Pepe Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Barbara)

The winemaker did not let the grapes hang long and get superripe. He picked when the citrusy, appley notes were just beginning to veer into white peach, and so preserved intense acidity. Lees is notable, oak less so, but both are seamless. The result is interesting and balanced—you might even call it Chablisian.

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