Lost River 2004 Wallula Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills)

The Wallula vineyard, set high atop a bluff overlooking the Columbia river, gives grapes that bring dark, roasted flavors to the large-scale wine. The fruit tastes as if it has been pushed, perhaps a bit too far, and the impression it leaves tilts toward the raisiny side. It's a wine that could go in a positive direction with cellar time, but it is impossible to tell right now, as it cuts off quickly once in the mouth. Paul Gregutt

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