Dry, almost austere at this stage, this wine is only just beginning to show its dense tannins and power. Under that firm, solid exterior, the rich black perfumed fruits are just waiting to burst out when it has had a few years in bottle. In 20 years, this will mature to greatness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.