A real blockbuster, with dark tannins and a firm, tough structure. Only right at the end does tasty, ripe fruit show up, but even this is heavy and brooding. If you want power in a Pinot, look no further.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.