Immense power lies behind the initially seductive nature of this wine. It is powerful, ripe, complex, full of tropical fruits, and still at first it seems to be restraining this intensity. Give it 10 years and it will be mind-blowing.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.