The potential here is enormous. This is a great wine, powerful and densely textured, at this stage packed with a steely character, but just waiting to unleash its beautifully defined fruit, to break out of the tight structure. Give it at least six years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.