This is the big one, one of the most treasured white wine vineyards in the world. And the wine is magnificent, balanced with restrained power and style. Yellow fruits are shot through with acidity that conveys a nervy texture and an intense, concentrated character. This needs many years; don't drink before 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.