With as much structure as fruit, this is an austere effort. It has hints of juicy flavors of red fruit and black plum that are intertwined with the acidity and the tight tannins. It does need to age, although it will always be dry.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.