The purity of this wine is impressive. It has a straight line of mineral, flint and grapefruit running through it. Around this, there are layers of fresh apples, lime zest and a tight, taut structure. The one downside to what is a fine wine is that it, like many Roederer vintages, is too young. Give it 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.