Although this tastes younger than some recent bottlings of this great nonvintage, it is still a fine wine. Its apple flavors meld effortlessly with citrus, grapefruit zest and just a touch of toast to show the depth of flavor that will emerge after a few more months in bottle.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.