This is a structured and complex wine that's still developing. Its primary fruits of apple and grapefruit are gaining a more mature, steely character that is taut and very textured. It should continue to improve for 2–3 more years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.