Loveblock 2020 Pinot Noir (Central Otago)

This vintage of Pinot—which sees 10% of fruit from the estate block in Marlborough—is a richer, less-vibrant bottling than past vintages. It's quite reductive to start, blanketed in barnyard, mocha and mushroom notes that distract from the concentrated, plump fruit. The palate is tightly structured with chalky textured, drying tannins. It takes plenty of time aerating in glass to harmonize them with the plush fruit, and a charred, campfire note is a bit distracting. Might benefit from another year or more in bottle. Christina Pickard