Because the Quinta do Ribeirinho is planted on sandy soil, phylloxera cannot attack the vine roots, so they can be ungrafted. Pato aims to make this wine in a prephylloxera style. It is certainly different, with flavors of bitter coffee and dry, intense curiously juicy sweet and sour acidity. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.