Luis Pato, whose name means “duck” in Portuguese, is the man who has tamed the local Baga grape by keeping its acidity and tannins in check. Made from 70-year-old vines, this is a stunningly concentrated wine, with sweet chocolate flavors and silky, tarry tannins. The juicy black-currant fruit makes it very drinkable. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.