Dusty, tarry fruit aromas come from this deep, nearly black-colored wine. It is smooth, almost velvety, with strong, dry tannins under the fruit. Intensely concentrated, it is certainly ageworthy, probably maturing well over the next five years. Vinha Pan is short for Vinha Panasqueria, the name of the vineyard. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.