Luke Lambert 2019 Syrah (Yarra Valley)

From one of the coolest microclimates in the Yarra and grown on unusually volcanic soil to boot, this is a structured yet also deliciously approachable wine from one of the Yarra's most talented small-batch producers. Made with minimal intervention and 80% whole-bunch fermentation, it opens with a heady perfume, like a cherry orchard at harvest time, with cinnamon bark and fistfuls of wild flowers thrown in for good measure. Thing feel more grown up on the palate. Sinewy, spicy tannins slink around crunchy fruit. Drink now with a platter of cured meats or age in bottle for several more years. Christina Pickard