Big spice is proper for a Grüner Veltliner Smaragd wine, the richest category in the Wachau. But Machherndl also manages not to forget white fruits, a layer of acidity, and a full, but crisp varietal character.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.