Full and rich, maybe missing some acidity, but replacing that with powered white nectarines. The pepper, though, causes the wine to fall short, giving it an edge. It needs time to develop properly—give it 2–3 years at least.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.