Heavy bottles and heavy extract seem to go together; proving the point is this wine. Heavy toast dominates the berry fruit. The normal wine from Cheval Noir is much more attractive.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.