From one of the great vintages so far this century, this is, as its name suggests, exceptional. It has such a strong steely mineral character from the Côte des Blancs' chalk soil and a coiled texture. Apple skin and lemon juice give the fruitiness to the wine, which is still young. Drink now–2025.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.