While the 50-year-old vines do bring concentration, they also deliver delicious swathes of ripe, juicy fruit. This is a ripe, black-cherry-flavored wine, strengthened by tannins and with a crisp edge of acidity. Drink from 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.