Berry, rhubarb and cocoa show on this flavorful red's deep nose. It's even and lithe in feel, with substantial tart berry flavors offset by more cocoa notes and earthy accents. As in their Sauvignon Blanc, Malan displays a deft winemaking touch, allowing the handsome depth of fruit to shine, showing good extraction and balance. Drink now through 2004. Best Buy. —M.M.