The concerted impact of bergamot, grapefruit, tangerine and lemon is almost surreal—its headiness reaches long neglected memories of deep summer mingled with the freshness of the open sea. The intensity of spicy grapefruit and the skin of still-green Seville oranges transports you to utopian shores. That such flavor should come from grapes is one of nature's unresolved, eternal mysteries. That this should shine in such a concentrated, slender wine is a marvel.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.