While there are plenty of firm tannins and weight here, the wine does feel somewhat hollow. The red fruits are there, showing slowly against the tannins. It has fine final acidity, but not the power and concentration you should expect.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.