A wood-aged St Laurent. It has certainly gained toast and spice, but it has lost good fresh fruit. Structure is all here at the moment, the fruit a whisper of black berries in the background.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.