A flavorful, mature wine from a respected vintage, in the classic Conde de Valdemar manner, a refined, perhaps more Pinot Noir-like style of Tempranillo. Handsome dried berry fruit and a cedary sweetness mark the wine throughout. It's lithe and elegant, with an almost delicate sense of balance. Has the elements of a much more expensive aged red Burgundy. Best now through 2005. Editors' Choice. —M.M.