I really liked the winery's 2003 Cab Franc, for its dark, black fruits laced with licorice and streaks of tarry tannin. What's missing here is that defining structure; they've slipped this one into the soft, smooth, generic red category. Sweet fruit, some smoke and a bit more stiffness to the tannins still make this wine a relative standout, but it's lost its edge.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.