Mayacamas 1999 Chardonnay (Napa Valley)

After all these years, Mayacamas still marches to a different drummer. Not for them flamboyant fruit or a heavy plaster of oak. You won't find tropical fruits, scads of spices and vanilla. This wine is tight and earthy, and the dryness is not offset with glycerin or other pseudo-sugars. It's earthy and austere. The point is ageability, if you care to cellar it.

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